Ruaha safari

November 14, 2011

A few road blocks

On Friday, 4th of November, we set out for a much anticipated safari for Richard. Before we could drive west we had to pick up other people at BKB. Don and Babs Armagost, (friends of Arnie and Mary Bloomquist, co-founders of Tumaini), and Monica Betancourt, a law professor at Tumaini, joined us for the ride. The ride-----how to describe it in a 4-wheeled drive car? It was only "smooth" for the first few kilometers, then the asphalt stopped. From then on, until we came to the park roads two hours later, it was quite jarring at times. We could tell that there was truck traffic from the deep ruts. There had been runoffs from rains long ago, but the ridges and gullies were still there for our wheels to hit. One can often drive in the middle or on the opposite side (right side here) of the road because there aren't many vehicles.Nevertheless, there are carts, motorcycles, bicycles, and the always present pedestrians to avoid besides cattle and goats. With good drivers, we were safe, no close calls.

Once we were down in the Rift valley we made one stop at Idodi Secondary Government School to leave a list of about 70 SOTV sponsored students.They were to take time from studies to write a letter to their sponsor. We would stop on the return to pick up the letters.  Idodi School is in a good situation on a hill with dormitories, gardens, environmental center, and, of course, many classrooms for the 950 students. My regret now is that we didn't take time on the way back to talk with the 47 students who wrote or take group photos.  Maybe in January when they return to school we will try again.

Can you see the crocodiles among the hippopotamuses?

Safari continues. Idodi village, Mapogoro village, and Tungamalenga were all passed through and we noted the flowering trees and fields beginning to grow. (It was more green on the way back as some rain fell over the week-end.) The excitement was building as we neared Ruaha National Park gate, because we had seen a few giraffes (twiga). We paid our entrance fees, took our permit, and drove on towards the Great Ruaha River where we stopped to view and photograph the numerous crocodiles (mamba) and  hippopotamus (kiboko) down in the river. After many photos of the herons and egrets, and 3 elephants, kudu, and a giraffe on the other side of the river, we continued on hoping to arrive for lunch before 1pm at Mwagusi Safari Camp.

Only a little green underbrush

Often we stopped on the way both to photograph and ask directions as we wound our way to the northern section of the park. Elephants (tembo) and Impala (swala pala), the main antelope of the park at- maybe a million?-were the animals we noticed on sides of the road. A number of later-identified birds caught our eyes. It was easy to see far into the distance because only the acacia trees had small leaves to block our view.  Oh! and palms and a few rain trees were green by the seemingly dry riverbeds.

Not just any old tent

We arrived about 1:15, were shown to our bandas (cabins), and a short explanation given on the operation of the same. These bandas are a roofed structure with a large tent in the center to be closed at night. A short-walled, covered veranda is in front facing the riverbed, and a full bathroom is enclosed at the rear--but not in the tent. They may not sound luxurious, but they are. After quickly unpacking, we walked to the dining hall and ate a delicious buffet lunch while meeting staff and being assisted by them.  The owner, Chris Fox, welcomed us and joined us for the meal ever the gracious host. We had time to rest before the first safari drive at 4:30 after tea! As if we needed rest, but the animals rest and so the viewing is not good in the heat of the day. Richard and I were too keyed up to sleep, so we watched the zebras (punda milia) and greater kudu (tandala mkubwa), a bovine species, grazing across the riverbed.

Our surprise when we started to leave for tea (coffee/tea and cake) was a small bull elephant blocking the path.  He was quite content to munch on the bushes and palmetto leaves and not move out of our way.  Since we were in his territory, we finally hopped over the low wall and walked quietly between two bandas to make it safely to the dining hall. This same elephant moved towards Dan two times!

One Baobab blossom on left and Vervet monkeys feasting

At 4:30, 6 of us were assigned our guide, Justin, who was a wealth of knowledge. Reginald, our driver, stopped wherever we wanted or Justin indicated-a great team. As much as this was a search for animals, we learned first about the Baobab trees that were sending out white blossoms. The vervet monkeys (tumbili) and birds, like the Lilac breasted roller, would eat part of the blossom and drop the rest. (By our banda it looked like it was snowing.) Many animals would enjoy the fallen blossoms including Impala, Tembo, and Warthogs(ngiri). Justin told us that we could eat the white seeds-quite good, and that the powder (pollen?) in the blossom made cream of tarter. Elephants eat the bark by stripping it off the tree. Also, they can get water from the inside, hence holes in the trunks.  Even though the bark comes off, the tree does not die like other trees that are girdled all the way around-survival.

Teamwork with trunk and toenails

As we were approaching a bridge watching the impalas grazing, a movement caught our eye. It was a lioness attempting to take down an impala for a meal. The lioness stopped  and watched us because the car got in her way, then she turned and joined the other 10 lions (simba) sleeping on the dry riverbed. Maybe not too hungry.  Justin told us that they are successful 1 out of 25 tries! It was exciting anyway.

In the same riverbed there were large areas that were disturbed by the elephants searching the sand for water. It was good to see them successful when they would spray each other. We might have seen some of these elephants earlier holding onto palmetto leaves with their trunk and slicing them off with their toenails! In another area elephants had stripped small acacia trees of many of the branches and bark.  In the nearby kopje of rocks smaller ancient relatives of the elephant scampered the rock hyrax(pimbi). It might be only18 inches long, but it is a mammal, not the rodent that it looks like. Across the ground beneath the acacia trees, ran about 8 to 10 dwarf mongooses (nguchiro). When they run together they are able kill a snake. We saw the banded mongoose in a big group----hunting? or having fun?

Rock hyrax on kopje

This list of animals that we saw all have something in common:  cape buffalo, dik dik, giraffe, Grant's gazelle, impala, greater and lesser kudu, and eland. Obviously it is not size or shape, but it is that they all have even-numbered toes on their feet and they rechew their food!! Only a wonderful creator could have assembled these varied creatures. The dik dik(digidigi) are tiny deer-or impala-like animals that are very shy, swift, have large ears and eyes. I liked seeing the warthogs run with their tails up so all can follow each other in a line through tall grass.

Follow me!

Three ox peckers hitching a meal and ride

Seeing the gentle giraffes with oxpeckers on their backs eating the ticks makes me think of all the other ties between animals. Baboons sit up in trees and warn the impala if predators are coming, monkeys and  birds drop leftover food down to many ground dwellers. And of course the leftover food from a lion kill is eaten by hyenas, other carrion eaters, and all the vultures that wait around, as well as, the insects we never saw. Not much is wasted in this habitat.

You want me to run again?

Savannah grazers

While we were having our "bush breakfast",  we watched saddle billed storks, a grey crowned crane, egrets and herons, a drongo, a robin chat, Ruaha red-billed hornbills some on the far side of the river where there was still water. One reptile species identified was the orange-headed male agama lizard and the spotted females. Surprising us next were yellow baboons (nyani) chasing a duma, oops, a cheetah! The group chased it for awhile, then we were in the way, and the cheetah escaped. Both animals have similar food needs and are competitors and prey and predator. A short drive later, we found the cheetah lying under a tree breathing heavily and we took photos for about 15 minutes while it posed for us! Another big bird that we watched were ostriches. Males are black so they can sit on the nest at night, while the females are tan/brown/grey. They were mostly eating and not running as fast as they can. While watching these, we went by a large herd of 40 or more zebras. I really like to say their name--punda milia!

Before heading in for lunch after being out for 5 1/2 hours, we spotted a group of elephants that had 5 calves, one of which Justin told us was only 2 months old. Some of the others were starting to grow tusks, therefore, they were near 18 months. A little refreshing and we ate another delicious buffet meal just as gourmet as the "out back"candlelight dinner the night before.

Careful !

I have an itch, mama

After more midday rest and another encounter with "friendly" elephant eating close to our door, we left for our third game viewing ride. The hunters were out in evening and in the distance we could see a bat-eared fox (mbweha masikio) and a blackbacked jackal (bweha) running away from us with two cubs hiding. As the sun was setting, we watched a pride of relaxed lions, except for the cubs that couldn't be still. Yellow baboons watched them, too, with the impalas not far away! I wonder if the flocks of helmeted Guineafowl (kanga) even are concerned about the lions. Many of them were eating along side red-necked spurfowl. Another superb meal was served out on the dry riverbed in front of our banda. I still wonder how they obtain all the fresh vegetables that were cooked for each meal.

Many more birds were seen, but not all of the 450 found in the park. I've yet to id them all. Interesting for me because of a class I teach at the Dodge Nature Center, was identifying tracks and holes, while we had an extensive lesson on scat early the next morning. I think it was to be a bird hike! Animals continue to work together to survive and thrive through difficult situations and environments.

This Ruaha hornbill is good way to end

Unfortunately for us after breakfast Sunday morning, we had to say good-by to Chris and his staff. Starting the 3-4 hour trip back was not inviting, but necessary since classes needed to be taught on Monday. Animals seemed to be avoiding us on the way out, except for a couple of lions that roared from the kopje. We had a glorious time seeing another of God's beautiful creations, safely watched over in the park and on our return trip.

Of course, we  do have many more photos, and perhaps when we return we can show more people and location shots and other animal "poses". Just ask us!
Classes are at midterms now, so Richard and Dan are extra busy. Sue and I are becoming involved with a secondary school. Planning what to do for Christmas is on our minds even as it is spring here.